Maria Island Walk

Last week I spent four glorious days on the Maria Island Walk, a gift from my wonderful husband. Together with a couple from Sydney, a couple from New Zealand and our two guides, I trekked along beautiful white beaches, climbed up Bishop & Clerk, stalked wombats, listened to the birds and learned about the island's fascinating history. Our guides prepared delicious meals, from pancakes for breakfast cooked on the barbecue to fresh salads and rolls for lunch, a range of sweet treats for morning or afternoon tea, to risotto, mushroom soup, even quail for dinner. And a good range of Tasmanian cheeses, beers and wines to sample. The outdoor hot showers at the camps were a real treat at the end of the day too (pictured below). Luxury hiking at its best.

I took a notebook and pen, planning to write about the experience and other random thoughts as I normally do when travelling, but my head was completely empty. No thoughts at all really, except where to place my foot next. No decisions to be made other than whether to have a glass of pinot gris or pinot noir. It was the perfect brain cleanser at the end of a long year. Highly recommend this trip if you want to get away from it all for a few days.

Three Capes Track - day 2

Surveyors to Munro
11km, 4-5 hours

With a short day of walking ahead, there's no rush to leave the hut. I was first to head off at around 9.30am.

One of the nicest things about this walk is that there are no interpretation signs. Instead, there are beautifully designed markers or 'story seats' along the way, with the accompanying information in a printed guide book. It's really well-written and entertaining. This was one of my favourite track markers, called 'who was here'. Wombat cubes!

The first real climb is to the top of Arthurs Peak, with views back to Crescent Bay and Mt Brown.

Then down into the low scrub in the windswept Ellarwey Valley.

All along the track were pockets of silver banksia. I was surprised to see so many. The dry coastal forests are so different to the rainforest at home.

Just as I started thinking about the Vegemite roll in my backpack, a nice lunch spot appeared. Coffee, apple, cake and I was on my way again. Only a short while down the track was this beautiful 'story seat' called 'Love in the Woods'.

I quite fancied having a little lie down, so I did. What a luxury to have nothing to do, nowhere to be. The dappled sunshine and gentle breeze under the trees... ahhhh.

From there it was only around an hour to Munro hut. The hut's terrace (and toilet block!) looked out over Munro Bight, where the fading light created beautiful pinks and blues.

But it must be said, one of the highlights of the day was the outdoor shower at the end of it! It features a pulley system and canvas bag that you fill up with hot water in a bucket, then run under it for about 10 minutes of glorious hot water in the sunshine with bush views.

Three Capes Track - day 1

Port Arthur to Surveyors
Boat cruise + 4km, 1.5-2 hour walk

If I describe what I saw on the Three Capes Track walk last week, I will quickly run out of superlatives. Spectacular, amazing, awesome, beautiful, exhilarating... you get the idea. Instead, I'll use few words to go with just some of the many photos I took - all iPhone snaps - and you'll have to go see for yourself if you haven't been already.

After a short bus ride from the Port Arthur Historic Site, the adventure begins with a Pennicott Wilderness Journeys cruise with views back to the famous penitentiary. I loved the colour of these cliffs on Point Puer. Can you spot the seal flipper sticking out of the water?

Our skipper pointed out a white-bellied sea eagle's nest in a large tree. Birds not present at the time, but we did see a juvenile eagle fly over a short while later.

It got pretty windy out past the heads, but the sea swell was mild compared to other days, and we enjoyed the views north, as the skipper pointed out where we would be walking the next few days.

The boat dropped us off on the sands of Denmans Cove. The trick is to wait until the wave recedes before disembarking.

Packs on, we headed across the beach, past the lagoon to the start of the Three Capes Track.

All the way along the headland, there are views back to the Port Arthur Historic Site, here just a sandstone speck in the distance.

Natural beauty - and a little man made too.

From there, it was an uphill climb to the ridge above and the weight of the pack started to make itself known, especially in my right shoulder. I stopped for a handful of trail mix and readjusted the straps, and felt renewed after that. In the heath on the ridge, I stumbled across a pretty Bennetts Wallaby, and she hung around long enough for me to take a few pictures.

I was keeping an eye out for a nice spot to stop for lunch, when I rounded a corner and Surveyors Hut, our accommodation for the night, came into view. I figured that the lovely deck with views out to Cape Raoul was a good a spot as any.

Our day ended with a briefing from super-informative Parks & Wildlife Service ranger Ken, and our first evening meal together. My vacuum-sealed steak was still mostly frozen! It went down a treat with some zucchini on the BBQ and a bread roll from my stash.

I had a four person room all to myself - a benefit of going in the "off season". Actually, I think it was the perfect time to go.

Finally, fagus

Yesterday I walked the Tarn Shelf circuit in Mount Field National Park with a friend, in perfect autumn weather. This walk has been on my list since we moved to Tasmania. The time to go is in late April, in order to see the "turning of the fagus". Fagus, or deciduous beech, is the only native plant in Tasmania that loses its leaves for winter. Before the tiny crinkled leaves fall, they turn bright golden then red in a terrific autumn display. We were a couple of weeks too late and most of the trees were bare, but we saw enough to get the idea.

The walk would be spectacular any time of the year. From the Lake Dobson car park, you climb up to the ski fields then hike along the ridge or 'shelf', looking down on tarns. The vegetation is varied and we loved looking at the alpine plants in the early part of the walk and the fungi and pandani towards the end. Just stunning. All of this wilderness, little more than an hour from Hobart.

The Royal Coastal Walk

Almost seven years on from our big move south, there are only a few things I still miss about Sydney. Our old Japanese style yoga class with Damien Lovelock at Manly Warringah Leagues Club. Our afternoon walks up to the dog park in Narraweena where the dogs played while owners chatted. And most of all, weekly trek training with Wild Women on Top. It's not that I don't go hiking here in Tassie, but on a walk last Sunday I remembered why Wild Women is different. It's all in the attitude. You get fitness, support, friendship and constant inspiration to set new hiking goals. Great tips from the coaches along the way. Everyone looks out for each other. And the walks are punctuated with special moments, like the treats that everyone brings to share, or swimming in a waterhole in your undies.

Last Sunday ten ladies plus coaches walked about 30km in Sydney's Royal National Park, along the Royal Coastal Walk from Otford at the southern end of the park to Bundeena, along stunning beaches and over spectacular headlands. Many people complete it in two days, camping along the way, but we did it in one.Thankfully the temperatures had dropped from the 40+ degrees of the previous weekend. Now that I'm used to walking in cooler climes, I'm not sure I'd cope on such a hot day.

I felt ashamed that most of the women I walked with had done more hiking in Tasmania than I have, and inspired to set new hiking goals. Amazingly, I could still walk just fine in heels at work the next day! Thank you coach Jo and team, it was a fabulous day out.

Heading west? Take a side trip

On the drive to the west coast of Tasmania, you pass several opportunities to stop along the Lyell Highway, to stretch your legs on a short walk and breathe in the fresh air of the surrounding wilderness. The first few times I drove out that way, I didn't stop anywhere but a couple of roadside lookouts. On last weekend's stay at Lake St Clair, we took a special drive along the windy road heading west to Nelson Falls, a beautiful cascade waterfall 20 minutes from Queenstown. It's an easy 20 minute return stroll from the main road.

On the way there, we stopped for a look at the world famous Franklin River with beautiful rainforest lining its banks. Interpretive signs tell the story of the conservation battle to save the river from being dammed and the importance of wilderness to humanity.

On the way back, we did the first 10 minutes or so of the 3-5 day return walk to Frenchmans Cap, to a swinging bridge over classic Tasmanian tea-coloured water. I'd like to think I'm fit and hardcore enough to do the whole walk, the reality I suspect is quite different. Time to start trek training again.